Boatyard is a notch above most bar and grills

For Entertainment

When you cross the bridge to the Maritime Republic these days, it's difficult to believe that picturesque little Eastport was ever cast by some in the role of Cinderella (prior to prince and glass shoe).

These days, businesses are thriving, neighborhoods are showing signs of gentrification, and increasingly Eastport is becoming the destination of choice for diners and drinkers who are not willing to sacrifice quality for that casual atmosphere and kicked-back ambiance.

Since 2001, when Dick Franyo opened the Boatyard Bar and Grill, he has made quality a goal. One visit to Boatyard is enough to demonstrate that the entire operation is geared toward meeting that objective. The light and airy feel of the place, formerly Patton's Pub, is highlighted by contemporary furniture, openness and lots of windows. The decor is nautical, of course, and the Boatyard Bar and Grill is a favorite gathering place for Annapolitans who love to spend time on the water. The cordial service is both professional and prompt.

As has been mentioned before in this space, a lot of establishments with Bar and Grill in their title put more emphasis on the former than on the latter. Not so with Boatyard. The kitchen, with Chef George Betz at the helm, successfully raises the standard by not only doing a top-notch job with the usual watering hole fare, but by jazzing up the rest of the menu as well.

The first indication of the "jazzing" comes with the list of appetizers. In addition to the usual things like fried calamari, wings and nachos, you can experience such treats as Crispy Portobello Fries ($7) that are breaded with panko crumbs and served with a whole grain mustard sauce.

Not a mushroom fan? Try the Caribbean Conch Fritters ($8) with the mango chili sauce, a yummy starter that's not usually found in these parts.

Our choice that evening, however, was Boatyard's Hot Blue Crab Dip ($10). I wish that every chef who thinks cream cheese should be the primary ingredient in crab dip could taste this version. We all understand the reality: a restaurant can't afford to use a ton of lump crab in their crab dip. (If they did, they'd have to charge a ton of money for it and diners wouldn't be willing to pay such an exorbitant price.) Ergo, additions must be made. Chef Betz's brown and bubbling crab dip adds spinach, onions, artichoke hearts and parmesan to the lump blue crab and the result is a dish that will disappear from your table as quickly as Evian on an August beach. The baguette toasts for dipping are more fitting than many crab dip dippers. Here's a thought: Anyone ever consider using a little assortment of crudite for crab dipping? Carb watchers would love you.

The wine list at Boatyard Bar and Grill is superior to most bar and grill cartes (many similar establishments seem to focus more on offering a bounty of beer choices instead) in that there are more than two dozen choices of reds and more than two dozen choices of whites as well. Prices are moderate. The Murphy-Goode Fume Blanc for $27 or the Castle Rock Pinot Noir for $30 are both good bets. On Tuesdays, Boatyard's wine special offers any bottle on their list for 50 percent off after 5 p.m.

Entree choices for our party were easier than usual on the night of this most recent visit as one diner was in the mood for fish and chips and the other was captured by the meatloaf special.

The Beer Battered Fish and Chips ($11) involved melt-in-your-mouth New England cod and a batter made with Otter Creek

Copper Ale. The frying was executed perfectly: The outside was brown and greaselessly crunchy while the inside was moist and flavorful. The homemade tartar sauce pointed the fish up quite nicely. The "chips," on the other hand, could use some work. They are advertised on the menu as crispy fries, but crispy they weren't. If that was a temporary aberration, then that was our bad luck. If those fries were typical of what they send out, then the kitchen needs a french fry refresher course.

The diner who ordered the meatloaf special ($9) was rewarded with a thick slab of exquisite meatloaf with just the right amount of a delectable herb gravy. The meatloaf had a subtle and intriguing hint of thyme that elevated it to the heights of meatloafdom. Kudos to the kitchen for that. The accompanying mashed redskin potatoes and veggie mixture got high marks as well.

Be forewarned: Boatyard Bar and Grill makes all their own desserts, so be sure to save room. I won't describe the Dessert Nachos ($5.25) as all of you would hop in your cars and race over there, causing a major Eastport traffic jam and/or several fender-benders.

For people who are always on a quest for a place to have breakfast that doesn't involve speaking into a box and rolling down your car window, Boatyard Bar and Grill is the go-to place. Their breakfast menu shows the same panache as the regular menu with such inclusions as Breakfast Pizza ($9) and Huevos Rancheros ($8.25). Whether you are going to Boatyard for breakfast, for lunch or dinner, for Sunday brunch, or to visit their new top-notch market and deli, you'll quickly see for yourself that Boatyard Bar and Grill's commitment to quality is in evidence everywhere you look and with every bite you take.

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A FINAL NOTE: Want to know something else wonderful about Annapolis? Great cakes! The last Sunday in April was Sweet Sunday, the annual charity affair that benefits Family and Children's Services of Anne Arundel County. Among the events were a cake-baking contest and a cake auction. The finest bakeries in Annapolis were represented and their luscious creations were no less than formidable. If you didn't make it this year, put it on your calendar for next year. You can't go wrong - you help a worthwhile cause and you get to eat plenty of phenomenal cake!

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Terra Walters is a freelance writer and editor based in Annapolis.